Gastronomic Delights & Disgusts

So you all know that I love experimenting and trying different foods but meats is something that I usually leave aside but here in Argentina I have promised myself I will try everything once so here’s a list of the good and bad novelties to date.
Key: \,- good experience; \,/X- so-so experience; X- bad experience

Sweet (all \,)
Dulce de Leche: delicious caramel like spread that they put on all things sweet here.
Alfajores: typical biscuits sandwiched together with dulce de leche or jam.
Pastafrola: A light sponge/tart with dulce de membrilla
Dulce de membrilla: Quince pear jam
Dulce de Batata: A solid jam made of sweet potato and milk
Pudin de Pan: A sponge made of bread and milk
Dulce de Mamon: a local fruit soaked and boiled in sweet water.

Savory
\,-Chipa- Puffs of cheesy bread made with mandioca flour.
\,-Guiso- Meat stew cooked with rice, pasta or polenta
X-Morsilla- Bloody sausage (similar to black pudding)
X-Tripe- Part of a cow’s intestine- grilled
X-Mondongo- Cows stomach- cooked as a stew
X-Mure- Cow’s udder- grilled
X/\,-Locro- Typical soup of sweet corn, lentils, pasta and all the left over insides of animals
\,-Humita- Sweet corn boiled and creamed with milk, cheese and spices and wrapped in sweet corn leaves.
\,-Tamal- Similar to Humita but with meat and not so sweet
\,-Cazuela de Cabrito- Goat stew (delicious)
\,-Zapallito de tronco- Courgette like vegetable but ball-like.
\,-Empanada- similar to a pasty/calzone traditionally filled with minced beef.

$aLtA!

On our way back from our adventures in Jujuy we decided to stop off in Salta. Vilma and Jose know Salta quite well so it wasn´t going to be a time consuming struggle to find our way around the city. Salta is a big city (468,583 habitants), is placed in a basin surrounded by mountains and claims a European feel. I definitely felt it!

We orientated ourselves by catching the Teleferico (Cable car) to the tip off the hill that over looks the city. The views were spectacular but I couldn´t help comparing it to Naples and I have to say that the view from Castel San Elmo hasn´t been beaten! The city spreads out for kilometres but like every other city I’ve been to in Argentina the city centre was very small in comparison.

Back on level ground we headed to MAAM (Museo deArqueologia de Alta Montaña) an amazing archaeology museum based on Inca culture and findings. According to MAAM every year the Incas sacrificed the most beautiful and intelligent children from their communities. It was a way of pleasing their gods and it was an honour for the families and children that were chosen. The children were buried in tombs on mountain peaks in their best clothes along with trinkets and toys of the highest quality e.g. tiny dolls made of gold and wrapped in the finest hand made materials, shells from Ecuador, solid silver llamas, feather head pieces etc. In 1999 an expedition discovered the tombs of 3 children on a mountain peak and due to the cold conditions everything was well conserved- even the bodies of the children.

In the museum the bodies of 2 girls are on display, along with the trinkets they found in each of their tombs. The body of the eldest who was about 15 years old is incredible; she looks like she could just be sleeping with her legs crossed, her back hunched and her head dozing. The youngest girl on the other hand is in such poorer condition. It is thought that she was struck by lightning and since the finding she’s had a horrible history of attempted smugglings etc. I didn´t really know what to think! Although it´s great for educational and historic matters it completely disrespects the beliefs, culture and sacrifices of the Incas and the bodies and rests of the children.

After lunch we had just enough time to hit another “Mercado Artesanal” (Craft Market). To my surprise it was totally different to the others. To begin with it was under a roof and behind the scenes it was all organized differently too. Here the Artesanos (indigenous craftsmen) had arranged themselves into a co-operative. Every item in the building had tag which noted the Artesano’s name, the price and when it was made. Here everything was made to the highest quality and it had an air of “Fairer trade” too. The items were also different to that of further north. The majority of the items came from “Wichi” or “Toba” communities. The colours were more neutral and the materials more natural and the items were equally if not more beautiful. After browsing and feeling everything for a good hour we started our long journey home to Chaco.

$4L!N4S GR4ND€$

The next destination was “Salinas Grandes” (Salt plains). I had seen, learnt and experienced so much in one day and there was still more to come! On the way we stopped in a crockery workshop and there we were greeted by the family that own the place and make the items. Once again they had everything and yes you guessed it, I bought more! In the back of the workshop they had a mound of corn on the cobs drying in the sun but they were all sorts of colours. Apparently they are multicoloured due to the richness and fertility of the soil!

We travelled the next 150km almost in silence- we were lost for words with everything that we had already experienced in a day! Many meters climb (3350m above sea level), views and hours later we arrived in Salinas Grandes! I’ve seen so many photos of salt plains but nothing can prepare you for how beautiful they are in reality. The Salinas Grandes of Salta/Jujuy (it grosses the border or two neighbouring provinces) are minute in comparison to others in Chile and Bolivia but still stretches itself across a staggering 525km/sq. The reflection of the sun on the salt was blinding in the silence. It was amazing, we wondered off on our own but everyone at some point looked up or had to support their head with their hands to try and begin to comprehend where exactly we were, how it came to be and compare the great expectations we had with the even greater reality!

We returned to Jujuy in silence as we descended the mountains in a wonderful silence admiring the simplicity of life and nature that the day had thrown at us.

La Quebrada de Humahuaca

After a good 100km along the Quebrada de Humahuaca which had goats, cacti, llamas and all sorts around every corner (and there are loads of corners) we arrived at Humahuaca. Vilma and Jose were overwhelmed to be in Humahuaca on the bank holiday eating locro (chapter gastronomic delights and disgusts). Humahuaca is the inspiration of many folklore artists and songs and I didn’t have to ask why. It was obvious! Humahuaca is the home of almost 8,000 beautiful, coca chewing habitants. It’s at a height of 2989m and the streets are cobbled and full of the most picturesque novelties, trinkets and shacks. After taking in the atmosphere of the little treat of a town I loaded myself with artesania.

Crafts vary from one indigenous community to another. They use different materials, colours according to their beliefs and local natural resources. In the north the indigenous communities are of “quosha” origin and their crafts are bright and colourful. They use all sorts of wool (sheep, llama, albaca) to make blankets, table cloths, jumpers, gloves, hats, socks and all sorts. Music is also a very strong element of their community and the creativity in their instruments was impressive. They use all sorts of materials from cactus wood to goat hooves and ceramics. They have so much talent! At home no one would ever dream of knitting as well as they do (no offence Mamgu/Granny) but here the whole village knits patterns that only machines could try to imitate in the UK.

The “Restraunt” we chose couldn’t have been better! We were served by Flavio Calapeaa- the cutest old man with a nervous twitch, the smallest attention span, the memory of a fish but the heart of a little boy. He was overwhelmed to meet us and smiled and looked around nervously as he tried to write our order of Humitas, Tamales, Locro and Cazuela de Cabrito (see gastro. D & D). He was full of jokes and random responses and wanted to sit with us and tell us his life story but couldn’t as he had 3 other tables to serve, his wife was in the kitchen keeping a good eye on him from the hatch and his blinking, slow reactions and clumsy limp weren’t to his favour. He filled us with joy, giggles and great food- it was a lunch never to be forgotten!

Chaco-Jujuy-Pumamarca

Last weekend was another “feriado” (holiday) and on the Wednesday it suddenly struck me that I should make the most of it so when a colleague told me she was going to go to Jujuy with her husband for the weekend and I was welcome to join I jumped at the opportunity! Never did I imagine that such short planning could lead to such an amazing experience. We took advantage of everything Jujuy had to throw at us!

We left at 6:30am on the Saturday and after 9 hours of landscape variations that never failed to leave me gob smacked we arrived in Jujuy- a province in the Andean north west of Argentina, bordering Bolivia and Chile. The land was a total transformation- there were mountains, green, successful sugar cane crops, rivers and big wide roads compared to the dry, dusty Chaco full of failed soya crops and potholes!

There wasn’t much to see in Jujuy capital where we were staying but it was a good access point to everywhere. Stayed in an excellent hostel and after an evening stroll and nibble with Vilma and Jose I returned to the hostel to chat, chill and chew coca leaves with the owner and friends. In the north people chew coca leaves with bicarbonate of soda to fight hunger and the nausea of altitude.

After 3 hours sleep I was “up up and at them”. We jumped in the car and off we went- first stop Purmamarca home to the Cerro de los Siete Colores (Hill of Seven Colours), 510 habitants and at a whopping elevation of 2,192m! It was beautiful- the landscape, the colours, the people and their “artesania” (crafts) and the simplicity of life in general. We strolled around the village totally overwhelmed and lost for words apart from “woahhh” “ahhhhh” “ohhhhh my god” and so forth but I was soon awaken from my blissful daze! As I stood on a hill top posing for a photo I heard some barking, turned around and to my absolute HORROR there were 2 massive vicious looking Alsatians running heading straight for me! I screamed, waved my arms in the air and pegged it which was an idiot idea! My scarf streamed behind me in the air and the dogs snapped and had a nice taste of it as I slid down the try dusty mound to safety!
Yikes!

Corrientes the 2nd time around

Corrientes is a neighbouring province of Chaco, it lies East of Chaco and the two provinces are separated by the Parana River. I spent a week in Corrientes capital before coming to Saenz Pena and I failed to see the beautiful quaint city that everyone raved about so this time when I arrived in Corrientes I was surprisingly taken by the place! Compared to Saenz Pena it was like a real city, with colonial buildings and café’s and chic bars and designer shops- it had everything and a really pleasant ambiance!
Phil (another British Council English assistant who is based in Corrientes) and I spent our time dining in nice restaurants, having nice coffees and browsing in book shops! Whilst Phil taught I browsed the craft market, bought some amazing soft leather Alpargatas (Shoes) and a Mate and sat in under a tree in the Plaza reading my book! It was just what I needed! Although Saenz Pena is small it has a certain hustle and bustle that loves to sweep me off my feet so I was glad to have a breath of fresh air!
Phil and some of his new friends also introduced me to “Costanera del sur” which is a promenade FULL of night clubs. I described it as a “Mini Miami” although I’ve never been to Miami and I was totally blown away. Phil wasn’t so impressed, but he’s a little stubborn princess! Saenz Pena has nothing to compare with Corrientes development wise but the people are friendlier, it’s more inviting and living there has taught me a lot about appreciating what people at home would consider common things!
Just when I thought that Corrientes couldn’t surprise me more in one weekend Phil, his friend Nadia and I were invited to a quinta (country house) 30km East of the Capital. Nadia told us that it was a beautiful house with a private beach on a fresh water lake but nothing could prepare us for the little paradise that we were to encounter! When the Taxi driver went off road, the road got narrower, the dirt turned to the whitest sand and the vegetation got wilder we knew we were approaching our little country retreat!
Sergio, the owner was there to greet us. The dogs and children were running bare footed under the mango trees, along the beach and occasionally stopping to rest in the hammocks and have a tinkle on the guitar! We took a big deep breath of fresh air. It felt soooooo good! It was so good that when we were invited to come back the following day we decided that we’d ditch the ideas we had of going to Reseva Provincial Esteros del Ibera and come back to the 100% pure honey, Senor Pompas (the new puppy) and tranquillity.