Tuesday 26 May 2009

La Quebrada de Humahuaca




After a good 100km along the Quebrada de Humahuaca which had goats, cacti, llamas and all sorts around every corner (and there are loads of corners) we arrived at Humahuaca. Vilma and Jose were overwhelmed to be in Humahuaca on the bank holiday eating locro (chapter gastronomic delights and disgusts). Humahuaca is the inspiration of many folklore artists and songs and I didn’t have to ask why. It was obvious! Humahuaca is the home of almost 8,000 beautiful, coca chewing habitants. It’s at a height of 2989m and the streets are cobbled and full of the most picturesque novelties, trinkets and shacks. After taking in the atmosphere of the little treat of a town I loaded myself with artesania.

Crafts vary from one indigenous community to another. They use different materials, colours according to their beliefs and local natural resources. In the north the indigenous communities are of “quosha” origin and their crafts are bright and colourful. They use all sorts of wool (sheep, llama, albaca) to make blankets, table cloths, jumpers, gloves, hats, socks and all sorts. Music is also a very strong element of their community and the creativity in their instruments was impressive. They use all sorts of materials from cactus wood to goat hooves and ceramics. They have so much talent! At home no one would ever dream of knitting as well as they do (no offence Mamgu/Granny) but here the whole village knits patterns that only machines could try to imitate in the UK.

The “Restraunt” we chose couldn’t have been better! We were served by Flavio Calapeaa- the cutest old man with a nervous twitch, the smallest attention span, the memory of a fish but the heart of a little boy. He was overwhelmed to meet us and smiled and looked around nervously as he tried to write our order of Humitas, Tamales, Locro and Cazuela de Cabrito (see gastro. D & D). He was full of jokes and random responses and wanted to sit with us and tell us his life story but couldn’t as he had 3 other tables to serve, his wife was in the kitchen keeping a good eye on him from the hatch and his blinking, slow reactions and clumsy limp weren’t to his favour. He filled us with joy, giggles and great food- it was a lunch never to be forgotten!

1 comment: